«However,
I’m a monster of ingratitude to complain, for I have had a very
interesting ten days and enjoyed them. Mr. Philby (Acting Reserve
Commission) and I left Basrah on his launch on the 22nd, got up to
Qurnah in the evening and spent the night with the A.P.O. We were off
early next day and went up to Qulat Salih—il was a delicious warm
day and the river was delightful. I don’t know why it should be as
attractive as it is. The elements of the scene are extremely simple,
but the combination still makes a wonderfully attractive result. Yet
there’s really nothing—flat, far-stretching plain coming down to
the river’s edge, thorn covered, water-covered in the flood in the
lower reaches, a little wheat and millet stubble in the base fields,
an occasional village of reed-built houses and the beautiful river
craft, majestic on noble sails or skimming on clumsy paddles. The
river bends and winds, curves back on itself almost and you have the
curious apparition of a fleet of white sails rising out of the thorny
waste, now on side of you, now the other. And by these you mark where
your cruise must be where the river divides wilderness from
wilderness. We passed Ezra’s Tomb and its clump of palms and got
out to look at it. There’s a very ancient tradition which is
probably true, that the prophet is buried here, but the actual shrine
is new.»
Gertrude Bell, 1er janvier 1917
Découverte sur internet, le volume 1 avec photos,
et le volume 2.
Je n'ai pas le volume 3, mais il semblerait qu'il n’ait jamais paru.
Mais on a tout là, avec ses photos.
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